Wednesday, July 17, 2019

Tiruttani and Sholinghur


Circa 2019

12th July 2019: My wife and I visited the holy city of Tiruttani, which has Lord Murugan’s temple built on a monolith  rock of height 700 feet. From the inscriptions, we understand that the temple was built between the 9th and 10th century AD by the Pallava Kings and later renovated by the Cholas.

Lord Murugan had made his appearance at this place eons before the Pallava Kings built this temple…It is probably a good idea to understand the definition of Yuga to appreciate how ancient the events are.

I am sure all of us are aware that we are presently in the times known as “Kali Yuga”. All of us may also be aware that Kali Yuga commenced with the departure of Lord Krishna in 5561 BCE and this marked the end of Dwapara Yuga. According to the puranic astronomical estimate, the four Yugas have the following durations.

Satya Yuga: 1,728,000 equivalent human years
Treta Yuga: 1,296,000 equivalent human years
Dwapara Yuga: 864,000 equivalent human years
Kali Yuga: 432,000 equivalent human years. We are in the ascending cycle of Kali Yuga with just about 7,580 years gone so far…

Of the six Padaiveedu’s of Lord Murugan (the other five being Swamimalai, Palani, Pazhamudiracholai, Thirupparankunram and Thiruchendur), Tiruttani ranks prominent as the crown jewel of the Lord. He blesses us with mental peace and happiness in this holy shrine. It is in Tiruttani that Murugan fell in love with SriValli and took his brother Ganesha’s help to marry her. The story of Murugan is related in Skanda Purana and as the legend goes, the Devas tortured by the demon Soorapadman, went to complain to Lord Vishnu and Brahma. They assigned Kamadeva to awake Lord Shiva from his penance and give birth to Skanda. As the story goes, from the Lord Shiva’s third eye, six sparks emanate. It was so hot to handle that Lord Agni was given the responsibility to carry them forward. However even Agni couldn’t bear the heat and left them in a lake called Saravana. In the lake the six sparks took the form of six divine children. Shiva and Parvati requested the six Karthika sisters to take care of the babies. Since the children were reared by the six Karthika sisters, Murugan got his name as Karthikeya. Lord Shiva and Parvati came to the lake and Parvati embraced all the six children together. As a result they got one single body with six heads. This is the reason why Karthikeya is also called Shanmukha (six faced Lord). It was mother Parvati who gifted Karthikeya with a divine weapon called “Vel” who used this weapon to annihilate the demons troubling the Devas. Pleased with this victory Lord Indra gave Karthikeya his daughter Devasena in marriage.

In Treta Yuga, Lord Rama after slaying Ravana worships Lord Shiva at Rameshwaram who suggests that Rama offer prayers to Lord Subramanya at Tiruttani for peace of mind and tranquility. In his Srijan talks, Shri Nilesh Oak explains through the writings and works of “Surya Siddhanta” how he arrived at certain dates in history about the timing of Mahabharatha and Ramayana. Surya Siddhanta is a very well respected ancient text on Vedic Astronomy, has 14 chapters and 580 verses. It is believed to have been related by Surya himself to Mayasura, Father-in-Law of Ravana. The 27 Nakshatras position has been accurately depicted in the celestial latitude and longitude. Using the position of these nakshatras as written in Valmiki’s Ramayan and by comparing it to the nakshatra’s current position in celestial space, one comes very accurately to the year 12,209 BCE as the year Ramayan war was fought.

The above historical data gives rise to the most fundamental question: When did Subramanya’s father, Shiva arrive…what are the roots of Brahma, Vishnu & Maheshwara. The story that I have been hearing since the time I have been able to comprehend, assimilate and remember is best explained in www.quora.com and the some extracts from this document are as follows:

First, MahaVishnu appeared in his Sheshnag. He was in yoga nidra for years together. Soon from his navel a lotus was formed and Brahma took birth. Eons passed and only Brahma and Vishnu existed in empty space. When Brahma and Vishnu opened their eyes, they had a glimpse of each other. This Brahma was known as Aadhya Brahmanaha. Brahma wanted Vishnu to pray upon him as Brahma thought that Vishnu was born from himself. Both had a heated debate regarding who made the first appearance. Watching them quarrel Shiva, the eternal cosmic energy makes a physical appearance by creating an Agni-Sthamb or Jyothir Linga. Our Purana’s talk about the eternal energy, Sada-Shiva. Sada-Shiva has no form, no attributes and no gunas. We could hence conclude that Shiva is AaJanmi or the one who has no birth. The word ‘Shiva’ means literally, Nothingness or Emptiness or “That which is not”. This has also been explained very eloquently by the present day Mystic and Guru, Sadguru Jaggi Vasudev in his various talks and conversations on Adi-Yogi.

The Agni-Sthamb told both Vishnu and Brahma that whoever finds the end of this Agni-Sthamb, he would be the Supreme God. Brahma went upwards and Vishnu downwards. But after going for yojanas upon yojanas, Vishnu realizes that this Sthamb is infinite and decides to head back to the starting point. Brahma on the other hand decides to take the help of Ketaki flower he had spotted on his journey upward. Brahma returns to the starting point with the Ketaki flower and tells that he had reached the top of the Jyothira Linga and found the Ketaki flower on top, which he presented as a proof. Vishnu was truthful and likened the Agni-Sthamb to knowledge…saying it is infinite with no beginning or end. Irritated by the lie of Brahma, the energy cursed Brahma that, “nobody will pray upon you, although you are its creator”. The energy also cursed Ketaki flower that, “nobody will use you for any ritual”.

Saddened, but having realized and accepted his mistake, Brahma requests the energy – Sada-Shiva to make an appearance in a human figure as his son, as the universe needed his pillar of knowledge.

Eons later and as mentioned in the Bhagawat Geeta, Brahma continued in his creation and brought forth four brahmachari’s. He requested these brahmachari’s to assist Brahma in his creations, but they refused. Brahma became intensely angry and his face turned blue. At this moment a small human like creature takes birth from his brain making Brahma remember the boon given by the Energy that he would appear in a human form. Soon a god with three eyes takes birth. He is none other than Rudhra Shiva – an incarnation of Sada-Shiva or supreme energy and knowledge.

The puranic association of Linga is the infinite pillar of  Agni (Agni-Sthamb) and not the misleading tantric interpretation of phallus as a symbol of Shivalinga.

Above explanations taken from various sources was to make an attempt at helping us understand how ancient these events are and come to terms with it. At this point, it would be interesting to know a bit about MahaVishnu’s Dashavtara. Th first five namely, Matsya, Kurma, Varaha, Narasimha and Vamana took place in “Satya Yuga”. Rama Avatara took place in Treta Yuga – we are familiar with the Ramayana war that took place during these times as written by Valmiki Rishi as an eye witness account. Krishna Avatara took place in Dwapara Yuga, details of which are there in the sacred text “Bhagwat Geeta”.

Quite naturally it would be correct to assume that both Ganesha and Subramanya made their appearance in Satya Yuga. While there have been conflicting statements about who is the elder of the two brothers, I would like to go with the mainstream majority that Ganesh is the elder one. Many shlokas attest to him as “Skandapurvaja”, which means elder to Skanda.

Satya Yuga translates to 2 million years before our present day and times. I am referring to Lord Shiva’s suggestion to Sri Rama that he pray to Lord Murugan at Tiruttani for peace and tranquility on his return to Ayodhya after killing Ravana. Presumably Murugan was here before the life and times of Sri Rama, hence the assumption that Lord Subramanya was present in Satya Yuga. The timelines can be either frightening or unnerving…for us lesser mortals, three generation itself is difficult to comprehend; imagine looking back into time of such gigantic proportions?

Being a Friday, we were told that the crowd would thin down in the afternoon hours. It had taken us 5 hours to reach by road from Bangalore. We had a sumptuous lunch at GRT Residency, an upmarket hotel and restaurant on the Tiruttani – Chennai highway and promptly reached the temple at 2:45 PM. While there are 365 steps to the hilltop temple, we drove up to a particular point and took the last 50 steps up on foot. Our hotel’s housekeeping staff member was correct when she had told that the crowd would be thin by 3 PM and so it was…we were so happy that we made the trip inside the temple twice. The main sanctum has Lord Murugan in his normal standing posture with his “Vel” and his two concerts SriValli and DevSena on either side in separate enclosures. There is another temple within this complex dedicated for Goddess Durga.

Haro Hara!!

13th July 2019: On our onward journey we had travelled via Walajapet and Sholinghur and hence had decided to visit the hilltop shrine of Yoga Narasimha at Sholinghur on the return leg. We were both a bit apprehensive if we would be able to climb the 1,305 steps to the hill top. It was a see-saw battle going on in our minds till we reached Sholinghur. But having come this far, we decided that we must genuinely make an attempt before conceding defeat. We gave respect to our age and creaky bone joints and made a very slow but determined ascent. We took our time and thankfully the weather was quite pleasant – it had rained the previous night and the sun took his time to show himself from behind the clouds. Although it was pretty humid and muggy we braved it out and took an hour and fifteen minutes to reach the top. 705 feet from the mean sea level…throughout the climb what occupied my mind was the effort that would have gone in building this temple. Climbing barefoot on the steep slopes would certainly have been risky and fraught with unknown dangers. The steps have only come recently. If only Engineers and Craftsmen from the earlier generations had left a detailed construction manual…it would have been so wonderful to know the secrets of their lifting and building techniques. Our imagination is limited by what we see around us in the present day – tower cranes. If only they had left a few sketches of their construction toolkit…we would perhaps have worshiped them as well and not just the Gods!

Yoga Narasimha Swamy is Lord Vishnu’s avatar and appeared in Satya Yuga. The main deity out here is in a yogic posture and just adjacent to main sanctum is another smaller one with his concert Goddess Amrithavalli. This temple was built during the reign of Vijayanagara dynasty. Swamy Doddachariar was the main person involved in the development of Sholinghur temple. The temple was later rennovated in year 1588 CE by the Swamy’s ardent devotees. Adjacent to this 705 feet high hill is a smaller one of 200 feet and the main deity is Yoga Anjaneya Swamy. It is believed that Lord Anjaneya Swamy’s eyes point toward the feet of Lord Narasimha Swamy residing atop the 705 feet hill.

Narasimha is a significant iconic symbol of creative resistance, hope against odds, victory over persecution, and destruction of evil. He is the destructor of not only external evil but also one’s own inner evil of body, speech and mind.

Narasimha avatar of Lord Vishnu is associated with the slaying of Hiranyakashipu, Father of Bhakta Prahalada. The demon king Hiranyakashipu undertook many years of austere penance to gain special powers with the sole intention of avenging his brother’s death in the hands of Lord Varaha – Vishnu’s earlier avatar. Pleased with his penance, Brahma offered him the boon he wished: “I shall not die within any residence or outside residence, during the daytime or at night, nor on the ground or in the sky, neither by any weapon nor a human being or animal, neither by any entity living or non-living nor by any demi-god or demon and not by any great snake from the lower planets. Boon being granted, Hiranyakashipu started persecuting all those who were devotees of Lord Vishnu, including his own son Prahalada whom he tried killing a number of time, but was saved by the Lord himself through his mystical powers. Once provoked by his demonic father if Lord was present in a pillar, Prahalada said “Yes”. Hearing this Hiranyakashipu with one blow destroyed the pillar, not knowing that Lord Vishnu would emanate from the pillar in the form of Narasimha. To kill Hiranyakashipu and not upset the boon granted by Lord Brahma, Vishnu took this form of part human and part animal. He came upon the Demon in twilight, neither day, nor night, on the threshold of the courtyard, neither inside the house nor outside the house, and put the demon on his thigh neither earth nor space and using his sharp fingernails, neither animate nor inanimate as a weapon tore the middle and killed the demon.

Sholinghur temple is famous for Narasimha in a yogic posture denoting peace. It is believed that the Lord gave mukthi to Prahalada in this Yogic form.

Walking down the 1,305 steps was an ordeal. Climbing up appeared like a cake-walk! In life too, climbing up is thrilling filled with expectations in the imaginative mind. But, climbing down? It can be disappointing with the mind not willing to step down from an exalted position. Climbing down the steps was a totally different game altogether. The legs get wobbly and begin to tremble uncontrollably making one wonder if a free fall is in the offing. However, God has own strange ways to keep us entertained. The population of monkeys and goats and the bonhomie between these two showed us the friendlier side of coexistence. We were given correct advice that we mustn’t carry food, water or temple offerings on our way up. The monkey’s merrily snatch whatever you carry in search of food and water.

The temple prasadam offered post darshan was out of this world. We had Sakkare Pongal and Puliogare in the tiny space where it is distributed, because coming out with it was an open invitation to the monkeys to snatch…it was this prasadam that helped us descend the 1,305 steps, one step at a time and without a freefall!

I was a bit worried about my wobbly legs...would it affect our 4 hour drive back home? Thankfully it didn’t and after a brief halt at an exotic wayside highway restaurant, Alankar where we had an amazing lunch, our next stop was home sweet home.

Om Namo Narayanaya!!