Trip to Varanasi - Namami Gange!!

Trip to Varanasi...Namami Gange!

Without doubt, the land of Varanasi or Kashi (the British had named this place Benares) has been the ultimate pilgrimage spot for Hindus for ages. It is the oldest living city in the world, and I quote Mark Twain’s words: “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”

We were told by our young guide Mr. Manjeet Sahani that we should consider staying at Ganges Grand, close to Godowlia Crossing and to Dashashwamedha Ghat – the main Ghat at Varanasi. We went by his suggestion and had booked ourselves at Ganges Grand and arrived there directly from Varanasi Airport on 14th November 2018. Just a couple of days back a 3.5 KM stretch of 4 lanes flyover had been inaugurated by our PM Modi and what used to be a one hour travel to the city, now takes just 20 to 30 minutes. Swachch Bharat mission has done wonders to this holy city and I can say it with surety that Kashi is now cleaner than Bangalore. With 65% floating population and with festivities around the year, it is a mammoth task to keep the city clean. The entire city is sweeped clean three times a day. The day we arrived at Varanasi, the Bihari’s major festival “Chath Puja” had just concluded with flowers and leaves thrown around at random. But by evening, before the start of Ganga Aarathi, it was sweeped clean from all debris.

Since the check-in time at the hotel was 12 noon, we kept the luggage at the reception and started our exploration of the lanes and by lanes of Varanasi. Quite naturally, the first stop was at Dashashwamedha Ghat – as the name suggests this was the very place where 10 horses were sacrificed by Lord Brahma during a yagna he performed. The present day ghat was first built by Peshwa Balaji Baji Rao in 1748, but a few decades later Queen of Indore Ahilyabhai Holker rebuilt it in 1774.

Ghats in Varanasi are riverfront steps leading to the banks of Ganges. The city has 87 ghats, two of which are exclusively used as cremation sites and these are Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghat. Wood used for burning comes through the river front and not by road from nearby forest areas. In a day, close to 300 to 350 pyres are lit…Hindus consider that dying in Varanasi rids one from the cycle of births and deaths and one attains salvation. There is an eternal flame in Manikarnika Ghat which is used for lighting the pyre and as the legend says this has been there since the time Lord Shiva came to this place. As legend says, Lord Vishnu had dug up a well (Manikarnika Kund) for Shiva and Parvathi to bathe and an ear ring made from Mani (bead) fell into the well and that’s how this ghat came to be known as Manikarnika Ghat. There is a temple dedicated to Lord Dharmeshwar in Manikarnika Ghat and water from the same well that was dug by Vishnu is pumped up for the devotees to use it on the Shivaling – Dharmeshwar. Digging of the well was necessary as Ganga did not exist at that point in time. With Lord Shiva’s blessings Yamaraj’s namkaran festivities were conducted here. This is the same place where Dharmaraya (Yudishtira) did his tapasya to Lord Yamaraj.

We proceeded to take the blessings of Kashi Vishalakshi – Mata Parvati or Gauri. This temple is considered as Shakthi Peetha and also gets its name from the legend that Mata Sati’s earrings (karna kundala) or eyes had fallen at this sacred spot here and that’s why this place is known as the Manikarni or Manikarnika. According to the Puranas, Vishalakshi Manikarnika or Vishalakshi Manikarni is one of the 52 Shakti Peethas. Vishalakshi Temple is a powerful Shakti Peetha and a visit is considered as a blessing by all her devotees. In the Puranas, it is clearly mentioned that the Varanasi city will exist even after the Pralaya.

It would be incomplete if we did not visit a Bhairav temple after taking the blessings of Kashi Vishalakshi. In a way Devi Durga created nine shaktis and stationed them in various places within Kashi to protect the holy city, in a similar way eight Bhairav’s were created to protect the devotees from all sorts of evil. Praying to Anand Bhairav will bring happiness and prosperity while developing a strong mental strength to be courageous.

In none of these temples we were allowed to take snaps; and I am relying on the written narrative to present what we saw and observed and what the Purohit and Manjeet informed about the significance of the place and temple. We went on a motor boat ride in the afternoon from Dashashwamedha Ghat to Assi Ghat on one end to Manikarnika Ghat at the other. Our plan was to return at dusk and get a prime position to see the Ganga Aarthi from close quarters. Manjeet was extremely resourceful in getting a vantage spot from where we were able to witness the entire one and half hour Aarathi. Significant was the way organizers allowed the crowd to participate in the samuhik bhajan and later helping to light the 8 tier lamp which was a culmination of Aarthi’s using incense sticks first, Dhoop, Deep, the eight tier lit lamp and finally the single bowl Mangalaarthi. This extravaganza was a feast to the eyes – kind of devotion with an emotional involvement in the entire proceedings…

Day Two: 15th November, also our 33rd wedding anniversary – we commenced with a dip in the holy Ganges with a hope that we start the remaining part of our life with a clean slate. Our first stop was at Varahi temple. This is a mystical underground temple and only the Purohit can enter this temple using a flight of stairs that leads underground. No special puja is offered here, only the daily puja as conducted by the temple Purohit. This temple is open only for two hours in the morning from 5 AM to 7 AM. This tradition has been followed for ages and no one clearly knows the reason. The deity can be seen only through two holes on top - From one hole we can see the face and the feet from the other. The position of the holes are indeed strategically located as one cannot see both face and feet from a single hole. Devotees pray for relief from legal issues, official problems etc. at this temple.
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Our next stop was a Kaal Bhairav Temple. As the legend goes Shiva intervened as a divine column of light between Brahma and Vishnu when they were competing for supremacy. An angry Brahma stared at the column with his fifth head which started to burn out of anger. Shiva at that instant created a new Bhairava or Kaal Bhairava to decapitate the 5th head. However, the head got stuck to Kaal Bhairava’s hand. Shiva ordered Kaal Bhairava to go to places to rid himself of the sin of having killed a Brahmin. It was only when Kaal Bhairava reached Varanasi, that the head got separated from his hand and hence this pace is also called Kapaal Mochan Teerth. Shiva ordered Kaal Bhairava to forever remain in Varanasi to remove the sins of his dovotees.

It is said that if a person does not have a proper destination, Kashi is the best place for him. Young Harikesh, born to Yaksh Purnabhadra and Kanaka Kundala from a very young age had become a devotee of Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva was describing the beauty of Varanasi in Anandavan to Parvati when her eyes fell on an emaciated young boy, none other than Harikesha. Learning about his intense devotion to Lord Shiva, Parvati requested Lord Shiva to bless the boy appropriately. Lord Shiva blessed the boy and said that he shall forever remain in Kashi and bless all those who pray to Lord Shiva. Addressing Harikesh as Yaksh Raj, he ordained his two Shiv Gans, Samparam and Utparam to always be present with Yaksh Raj. Lord Shiva proclaimed that those who do not worship Yaksh Raj, (or Dandapani – one who wields the stick) would not get the benefit of mukti in Kashi.

Our next stop was at BHU – the vast expanse of the campus that houses all academic faculties. The ancient Kashi Vishwanath temple was destroyed and rebuilt several times in the history. In 1930s, Pandit Madan Mohan decided to replicate the temple inside BHU campus and Birla family took up the work. In 1931, the foundation for the temple was made. The temple was completed in 1966. Since it is a replica of Kashi Vishwanath temple, it is called as the New Vishwanath temple. This temple has the highest temple tower in the world. The temple gopuram is 77 metre tall and is completely made of marble. There are 9 shrines inside this temple. In the ground floor, there is a large Shiva temple. In the first floor, there are shrines for Durga and Lakshmi Narayan. Other main temples are Hanuman temple, Ganesh temple, Parvati temple, Nataraj temple, Saraswathi temple and Nandi. The complete prose of the Gita is inscribed on the walls along with pictures.

Our next stop: Durga Mandir built in the 18th century by Maharani of Bengal. This temple in its entirety has been painted sindoor ‘red’. The temple tank (Kund or Kalyani) has been recently reconstructed and inaugurated by PM Modi. It is believed that the main idol of Maa Durga is a swayambu - it means that Maa Durga has herself appeared in this sanctum sanctorum in the form of an idol – as Goddess of Strength & Power.

We proceeded to Sankat Mochan (reliever from troubles) Hanuman’s temple. It is believed that this temple has been built on the very spot where Tulsidas had a vision of Hanuman. Tradition promises that regular visitors to the temple will gain the special favour of Lord Hanuman. Every Tuesday and Saturday thousands of people queue up in front of the temple to offer prayers to Lord Hanuman. According to Vedic Astrology, Hanuman saves human beings from the anger of the planet Shani (Saturn), and especially people who have an ill-placed Saturn in their horoscopes visit this temple for astrological remedies. This is supposed to be the most effective way for appeasing Shani. While the story goes that Hanuman did not hesitate to engulf the Sun in his mouth – the lord of all planets; this humbled all the gods and angels, making them worship him for releasing the Sun. Some astrologers believe that worshipping Hanuman can neutralise the ill-effect of Mangal (Mars) and practically any planet that has an ill effect on human life. Unfortunately, in 2006 there was a bomb explosion within the premises where a wedding was organised. However, chanting and prayers did not stop and from the very next day the temple was back to normal in offering daily prayers. There is a security outpost now and everyone is subject to frisking.

Our next visit was to take the blessings of Lord Shiva’s sister – Kaudi Mata. It is believed that visit to Kashi is incomplete without a visit to the Kaudi (Chozhi) Mata Temple. This temple is known by various names such as Chozhi or Cowrie Mata, and Gauri Mata. The name owes its origin to the cowries or shells which are thrown to the goddess as offering. The goddess here is considered to be a sister of Shiva. According to legend, Shiva’s sister had her temple within the ancient temple complex. However, when she saw thousands of common people touch and hug her brother while praying, she became jealous and tried to stop this practice. At this, Shiva became angry. He said that, “He was at Kashi so the common people could pray to him the way they liked.” As a punishment he banished her and sent her out of the temple. She repented and prayed to Shiva for mercy, and finally he relented. He could not take back the curse, but He decreed that all those who visit Kashi should visit her too. A trip to Kashi would be ineffective if one returned without visiting her. Hence, it is a practice to visit the Chozhi Mata Temple after visiting all the temples in Kashi and performing all rituals. One can buy cowries outside the temple, throw a few on the goddess and ask her to bless them by bestowing on them the fruits of their Kashi Yatra, and bring back a few cowries as Prasad and keep it in their respective prayer room.

Our penultimate stoppage was at Tilbhandeshwar Mahadev Mandir, the final one being Kashi Vishwanath. Believed to be constructed in the 18th century, this is one of the oldest and most famous in the holy city of Varanasi. It is believed that the Shiva Ling emerged by itself 2,500 years back and its size increases each year by the size of a ‘til’ sesame seed. A unique combination of Malyali and Banarasi culture is represented by this temple. Hindu devotees celebrate here their famous festivals such as Mahashivratri, Shravan Somvara, Navratri, Makar Sankranti, Ayappa Puja etc. The idols of other Hindu deities namely, Maa Parvati, Vibhandeshwar, Bhairav and Lord Ayappa are also there in this temple complex. It is considered that Mata Sharda had spent some days in Varanasi at this temple.

In none of the temples explained above we were allowed to take snaps. On hindsight, It is best kept that way I think, as it will be a catalyst for people to visit this Punya Kshetra and spend a couple of days visiting the innumerable temples. Every house is a temple in Varanasi and each has its own unique story to tell.

We had planned to get Rudrabhisheka done for Kashi Viswanath and we presented ourselves at the gate at 4:30 PM. One of the inner sanctum Purohits came outside the temple premises to lead us back inside to a spacious hall adjacent to the Kashi Vishwanath Sanctum Sanctorum. While chanting of Rudra after sankalpa took almost an hour, what was heartening to note were the two giant size TV screens with the camera placed inside the sanctum. All of the one hour that we spent in the chanting of the Rudra, Lord Kashi Vishwanath was visible large and clear on the TV Screen. Exactly at 6:15 PM, the gates around the Moola Vigraha were removed and this signalled that we could go inside and offer our prayers with Panchamrutha and perform Mangalarthi. The tradition followed here is amazing…each person is allowed to offer Panchamrutha, garlands and touch the Linga. There was also Karpoora in a small earthen pot which we used for doing the Mangalarathi. The feeling was awesome, some kind of inner ecstacy that swept us both from this world to the surreal world. The continuous waves of devotees, the general din around us just did not seem to matter. We felt blessed entering his house and touching his feet from such close quarters. Each time I recollect those moments, I can reconstruct the complete image in my mind – I hope it will remain etched forever in my memory.

Having completed our Darshan, our next target was to get a vantage position near the entrance to watch the Saptharishi Aarathi. Saptharishi Aarathi is conducted simultaneously by seven Purohits one from each Gotra. This event takes an hour and half from start to finish. The event starts by closing the entrance doors for dharma darshan and entire inner sanctum is cleaned with milk and water. The Linga is located at a lower level than the floor and it is quite a task to remove all the water, flowers and leaves to make a fresh start. We did get a vantage point and were able to see the Lead Purohit from very close quarters. All seven of them, once they got a cue from the Lead, do the Panchamrutha abhishakam in absolute unison. This takes 20 minutes for completion. Later the Linga is decorated with Flowers. Then comes on the Kavacha of Naga Devatha – made out of silver, its lower ring-like portion slips into the Linga. Once the second round of flower decoration is completed, which takes about 30 minutes, an array of diyas in a rhombus format is placed around the Linga. Amidst chanting of mantras, all the seven Purohits perform the Mangala Aarathi in stages. First, it is with incense sticks, later with a single diya, then it is Srigandha, the tiered lamp comes next before the final one which is in super-size silver bowl. Once the lamps are lit on the rhombus formation, the electric lights are switched off…this gives it an “Out-of-this-World” touch. The chanting amidst the Aarathi takes a good 30 to 40 minutes and it is a treat to the eyes. The chanting commences at a slow pace with each Purohit holding an Aarathi in one hand and swinging the bell in the other. It gradually picks up pace and reaches a crescendo. I am quite sure every devotees heart beat would be racing at the same pace of the ringing bells as it reaches its peak. It casts a spell and has a mesmerising effect. While I have tried to explain in words, seeing is believing and I have said this earlier on and would like to say it again – that a visit to this temple is a must for every Devotee.

Although our day at Kashi Vishwanath temple came to a close, we hope to carry all that we saw and experienced in our memories and keep it afresh in the days and years ahead. We closed our day by visiting Annapoorneshwari temple and the adjacent dining hall where food is served to all devotees twice a day.

Har Har Mahadev!

Special Note: Should any of you want the services of Manjeet Sahani, he is reachable at +91-7388130874. His website is www.varanasiheritagetour.com– he needs a month or two advance notice to block dates in the peak season time: October to March. His services come for a fee…